Hugging Croatia’s craggy limestone shoreline, our small ship heads north towards Split, sailing through a silky sheen of a sea. We glide through cobalt channels between dozens of islands, most uninhabited save for birds. Early morning mist blurs the contour lines of Croatia’s hills.

On our Adriatic odyssey, we are far from the behemoth cruisers with their thousands of passengers.  After three days that took in Dubrovnik, Ston’s oysters, Mljet’s National Park and Korcula, the 36 passengers and 9 crew are becoming an extended family. 

Settled into our comfortable cabins, we are creating our daily routines. Lana, our Cruise Director, is our guru. Not just keeping us up to speed on the daily programme. She is our concierge. Recommending wines “easier to drink than to pronounce” and tossing in titbits of local culture and history. She is our guardian too: “Don’t try to

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