What’s it Like to Travel in Tonga?

Tonga is one of my favourite countries in the world.

I can’t stop talking about how incredible it is. It’s full of some of the loveliest people on the planet, has some of the best beaches I’ve ever stepped foot on, has dozens of islands to explore, and can be seen at an affordable price. It’s even one of only two places in the world where you can jump in the water and swim with humpback whales.

I’m on a mission to convince everybody to go to Tonga and that includes you, so let’s get started with a post about what it’s like to travel in this South Pacific country.

Beach on Matafonua in Ha'apai Tonga

Fancy having both of these beaches all to yourself? Visit Tonga in January!

Low Season Is the Time to Go If You Hate Being Around Other People

I came to Tonga in January because that was my only option.

I often spend Christmases in Oceania, where I always aspire to explore a South Pacific country while I’m in town. January, then, is when you’ll catch me on the islands. Even though it’s cyclone season.

Despite only being able to travel in the wet season, I’ve been fortunate with the weather. When I spent three weeks in the Cook Islands, French Polynesia, and Fiji, I encountered just one day of rain. Over my two weeks in Tonga, I experienced only three wet days. So while there’s an inherent risk in travelling when cyclones are lurking, I anecdotally have had close to entirely blue sky on my trips.

So what’s all this about hating other people?

Unlike other places I’ve visited in the South Pacific, in Tonga, low season means low, low, low season. I was the only person staying at my hostel in Tongatapu, one of two people in my guesthouse in ‘Eua, and spent most of my time in Vava’u alone. Ha’apai was the only destination where there were other people staying in my guesthouse, but it was far from full.

There are pros and cons to visiting at this time of year. The advantages are lower prices, never struggling to get into your dream accommodation (some of the places I stayed in are already fully-booked for high season 2019), and the islands are peaceful and calm. The odds of sunny days are probably higher than you’d expect, too.

The cons outweigh the pros for me, unfortunately. Most people come to Tonga to swim with humpback whales and the coastline is swarming with these gigantic mammals between July and October. You’re practically guaranteed to get up close and personal with them if you take a trip out on the water. If you stay on dry land, you’ll likely end up watching whales swimming past your guesthouse from all over the country. Not being able to see the whales on this trip made me feel as though I was missing out on one of the main highlights of Tonga.

On top of that, I found the lack of other guests a little frustrating at times, and the fact that many of my guesthouses weren’t running tours in the low season meant I missed out on a couple of activities I had originally hoped to do.

If you can visit Tonga at any time of year, choose the high season unless you’re tight on cash or love the idea of being alone in paradise.

Horses on Eua in Tonga

Wild ponies roaming the wild island of ‘Eua

Connectivity Isn’t Great

Tonga is a developing country in the middle of a vast ocean, and with that comes a whole bunch of connectivity problems.

My guesthouses in Tongatapu and ‘Eua both advertised Wi-Fi online, but when I turned up, both owners informed me they didn’t actually have it. Fortunately, I’d had the foresight to pick up a local SIM card from the airport in Tongatapu, along with 3GB of data, in case I needed to tether my laptop at some point during the trip. I did, often.

Despite this, I was barely online. The highest download speed I found was a mere 0.5 mbps in Tongatapu, and it was worse on every other island. I opted for U-Call, which has the best coverage but slowest speeds across the islands, and while I usually had an Edge signal almost everywhere, it was close to unusable most of the time.

This is a destination in which to disconnect and to relish the opportunity to do so.

Wild pig on Eua in Tonga

It’s impossible to walk for more than ten minutes in Tonga and not come across a wandering pig!

Pigs Are Everywhere

In love with piglets? Come to Tonga. I’ve never seen so many pigs.

You’ll find them roaming the streets, sunbathing on the beaches, fishing in the ocean, lazing in gardens, attempting to get into stores, and generally running around your feet whenever you leave the house. I must have seen hundreds of pigs while I was exploring the islands, never going more than a few minutes without hearing a telltale grunt.

Island of Tonga from above

Views from my flight to Ha’apai — we flew over so many beautiful islands and sandbanks

You Can Take One of the Shortest Flights in the World

The flight from Tongatapu to Eua is just six minutes long and let me tell you, it was the longest six minutes of my life.

The plane was more like a canoe than an aircraft, thanks to the lack of aisle, and there were only four seats. Our calm pilot rested his arm out of the window! It was a tiny vessel and a bumpy ride, but a terrifying cool travel experience nonetheless.

I highly recommend splurging $70 on the flight to experience what it’s like to soar in such a tiny object, but if money is tight or nerves are high, you can get the ferry for much less.

Cemetery in Tonga

Tongan graves are covered in sand, then decorated with colourful flowers, coral, and even beer bottles if the departed enjoyed a drink

This Is a Deeply Religious Country

Tonga is a very, very Christian country, although the locals will never try to convert you or obviously judge you for not following the same beliefs. There are, however, some rules you should abide by while you’re in the country in order to show respect.

It’s illegal in Tonga for men or women to go topless, and the women should aim to keep their knees and shoulders covered unless staying at a resort. The greatest impact the religion will have on your trip is keeping you inside on Sundays. On Sunday, it’s against the law to exercise in Tonga, and no business transaction can take place. That means no swimming, so running, no snorkelling, no kayaking… this is a day to go to church, to feast, and to spend time with family. Plan for this in advance so that you don’t slip up and discover you don’t have anything to eat while there are no stores open.

At one particular church, I discovered that at every Sunday service, someone will read out the amount of money each local has donated to the church that week. There’s so much pressure and shame for the locals to deal with that they’ll often take out loans to ensure they pay out the most amount of money. The interest rates, unsurprisingly, are extremely high.

Flight over a beach in Tonga

Yet another perfect beach, spotted on my flight to Vava’u

Let Me Tell You About the Fakaleiti

Fakaleiti roughly translates to “like a girl”, and is one of the more interesting aspects of life in Tonga.

Traditionally in Tonga, if a woman were to give birth to only boys, she could choose one of them to be her daughter. The daughter, the “fakaleiti”, would then be raised as a woman, taught to cook, clean, raise siblings, and take care of her parents. She would wear dresses, if she wanted, and learn to apply makeup. In more modern times, being a fakaleiti can be a lifestyle choice, and there is little stigma attached to it, although there are occasional reports of physical abuse.

Fakaleiti don’t label themselves gay or transgendered, and reject being referred to by Western terms that can’t fully explain this type of — I guess — third gender. They generally consider themselves to be women and as such, have sex with straight men. Some, however, will marry women and go on to have children.

Beach in Ha'apai Tonga

The beach in Ha’apai was incredible: just look at the colour of that water!

Beware the Oldest Sister

If you thought that was fascinating, wait until I delve into social status within the country.

Men are ranked higher than women in Tonga, but within the family, the sisters are ranked higher than the brothers. The oldest sister in every family holds the highest status within their home, and in Tongan culture, if this sister asks any of her younger brothers or sisters for anything, they must give it to her and always obey her orders.

Most shockingly of all, if the oldest sister decides she quite likes the look of her younger sister’s newborn baby, SHE CAN TAKE IT. Yes, she’ll take that baby and raise it as her own, and there’s nothing the younger sister can do about it. It happened to one of the staff members at a guesthouse I stayed at, so it’s not even that rare of an occurrence. It’s pretty bewildering.

Beach hut in Matafonua

My beautiful beach hut in Ha’apai

You Can Go Budget or Full-On Luxury Travel Here

I found Tonga fairly easy to visit as a budget backpacker, as there were plenty of hostels and cheap guesthouses on the islands, inexpensive ferries if you didn’t want to take a flight, and the food was cheap.

In Tongatapu, my hostel charged just over 8 USD for a dorm bed, and there are backpacker islands in Vava’u that charge $30 for a private room on your own little beach.

That’s not to say that this is a destination for roughing it. There are plenty of gorgeous resorts and luxury experiences to indulge in if you’re willing to splash the cash. I planned to stay at the incredible Mounu Resort while I was in Vava’u, at a ridiculous $300 a night, but cancelled at the last minute when it was pouring with rain. It looks like one of the most spectacular islands on the planet.

Road on Tongatapu

A typical road on the main island of Tongatapu

There Are No Traffic Lights in the Country

Fun fact! It really doesn’t affect your trip either way, but I found it fascinating anyway. I’m not sure I’ve ever been to a country that doesn’t have traffic lights before.

Island time is king on Tonga, and most cars drive so slowly that it’s never a problem. Outside of Tongatapu, traffic is very, very rare.

Tongan island from the plane

Just another beautiful Tongan island

There are so Many Islands to Explore

Despite Tongatapu and ‘Eua being less than a 10 minute flight away, they couldn’t have been more different.

You should go to Tongatapu to learn about the country. It’s geography is flat, with a huge lagoon, and a coastline lined with blowholes. There are royal tombs and palaces to take photos of, ruins to explore, and landing sites of famous explorers to check out. The island is blanketed in palm trees and looks beautiful when you come into land.

On the other hand, ‘Eua is a eco-friendly destination that’s all about hiking. It’s got rainforests and mountains, along with beautiful beaches in the west and rugged cliffs in the east. There are wild ponies to wander alongside, and myths and legends to learn as you trek through the jungle.

Ha’apai is simply gorgeous. Every single beach photo in this post was taken in Ha’apai, and after seven years of travel, I count them as some of the best I’ve ever stepped foot on. You come here to relax, unwind, and skip along some of the most incredible beaches ever.

Vava’u is supposed to be the most beautiful island chain in the country. Unfortunately, it poured with rain while I was there so I didn’t get to witness the beauty firsthand, but the photos look incredible. In Vava’u, you come to swim with humpback whales, to charter a yacht, and to dive in clear waters. Vava’u has more tourists, nightlife, and accommodation options than Ha’apai, although the islands are still calm and sleepy.

Sunrise in Tonga

Did you know that Tonga is the first country in the world to see the sunrise?

There Are Some Seriously Isolated Parts of the Country

If you’re more adventurous than I am, you might consider checking out the Niuas. Despite finding flights that could take me there and back while I was in the country, I wasn’t quite brave enough to venture over there. There’s simply no information about them online.

Any (extremely dated) articles about the islands mention there being one guesthouse you can stay on, but then I discovered an article saying it had closed down after a tsunami in 2009 and hadn’t yet been rebuilt. On the Tongan tourism board website, they encourage you to phone the tourism bureau in the Niuas to ask them how to find somewhere to stay. Other websites encourage you to turn up with a tent and camp, or just arrive and hope a local invites you into their home to stay.

It sounds like such a fascinating part of the world, as there are very few places that have been influenced by close to zero tourists. I would have gone if I could have found a guesthouse to stay in.

Girl on beach in Tonga

Covered up and on the beach in Ha’apai

Obesity is a Big Problem

On my flight from Tongatapu to Auckland, I couldn’t believe how many people requested a seatbelt extender.

Tonga has the highest levels of obesity in the world, and a big part of that is due to the type of food they import from New Zealand. Mutton flaps are popular in the country, and they’re full of calories — 420 per 100 grams. An incredible 40% of the population has type 2 diabetes. More than 90% of the population is overweight or obese. Life expectance has dropped from 75 to 64.

In Tonga, big is seen as beautiful. At feasts, Tongans will say, “Kai ke mate,” which means, “eat until you die.” One of their kings — Tupou IV — holds the Guinness world record for being the heaviest monarch, weighing in at 220kg/33 stone/440 lbs.

It’s a worrying trend that I hope will start to reverse soon. It’ll be tough to do when beauty is associated with a larger size.

View of Matafonua

The view from my beach hut in Ha’apai

The Locals are Lovely

I felt incredibly safe on Tonga as a solo woman, as every single local I encountered was friendly, welcoming, and helpful. I could sit and list the dozens of positive interactions I had, but I’ll narrow it down to just a few.

In Vava’u, every time I left my room, a local would pull over in their car and ask if they could drive me to where I was going. When I told a local in ‘Eua that I was hoping to try a traditional Tongan pig while I was in the country, he rang around the island and 30 minutes later, presented me with a bag of crispy pork that his friend had brought around from his family’s feast. When I got sick in ‘Eua, the airport staff told me they’d hold the plane for me while my guesthouse owner took time out of her day to take me to the hospital, where the doctor left her home on her lunch break to prescribe me some medication.

Palm trees in Tongatapu

Palm trees blanket the island in Tongatapu

There Still Isn’t Much Information About the Country Online

It isn’t too difficult to gain a general idea of where you should go in Tonga. You have the main island of Tongatapu and tiny ‘Eua, which is just off the coast of Tongatapu. North of these are the island chains of Ha’apai and Vava’u, and then even further north you have the remote Niuas.

When it comes to deciding which islands to visit in Ha’apai and Vava’u, though, I struggled. There isn’t much accommodation listed online, many of the guesthouses require you to call to book, listing their phone number on a website that hasn’t been updated in years. Because the islands don’t have power, it’s tough to get in contact with accommodation owners.

I didn’t bother grabbing a Lonely Planet Tonga for this trip because I’m travelling for six months and didn’t want to lug it around the world with me, but I think it would have helped a lot to have a breakdown on which islands are best for which type of person. I did a lot of guesswork, most of it paid off.

I learned that Tongatapu is worth visiting for one or two days, ‘Eua is underrated and worth spending three or four days in, Ha’apai is paradise and you should spend as long as you can in Matafonua Lodge, and Vava’u should take up as much space in your itinerary as Ha’apai.

And that’s Tonga! I absolutely fell in love with this gorgeous country and can’t wait to start writing about it in more depth. Have I convinced you to visit yet?

Thanks for reading!

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