From the top of the baroque Vor Frelsers Kirke I could see almost all of central Copenhagen. The 400 steps up the winding spiral staircase hadn’t seemed too demanding, not even the last 150, which wound around the outside of the bell tower.

The last few steps were only just wide enough for one person to squeeze up at a time. I squeezed past a handful of nervous tourists, who were clearly having second thoughts, and climbed right to the tippy top where I was rewarded with one of the best views over Copenhagen – a 360° panoramic view of the city and beyond.

Copenhagen, Denmark’s design-savvy, food-obsessed capital, is often described as one of the most liveable cities in the world. Its relatively small size, fabulous architecture, clean harbour, low crime rate, terrific public transport and the world’s best work-life balance, all combine to

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