It’s Sunday morning and we’re out kayaking, just off Paternoster, one of the oldest fishing villages on the west coast of South Africa. The water is crystal clear. Huge smooth, grey boulders loom above us, covered in sea birds, all squawking and calling. Black Oystercatchers, with long red legs, forage for food among the rockpools. Cormorants, with their wings spread to dry, sit in the morning sunshine. Gulls swoop and dive overhead. We see the spray from a humpback whale surfacing, and two Heaviside’s dolphins, with their striking black, grey and white markings, dive in and out of the water beside us. There can be as many as 400 whales in the bay during the season we were told, though we’re delighted with one! A perfect morning, a perfect way
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