Review: Cookoovaya, Athens, Greece

Cookoovaya” (κουκουβάγια), which means “owl” in Greek, is depicted in this restaurant’s logo, which features the eyes and beak of an owl. In Athens‘ historical and vibrant Pangrati neighbourhood, the logo features prominently on a sign outside this Michelin Guide restaurant, with the words ‘Wise Cuisine’ below. The owl is the sacred bird of the goddess Athena and a symbol of the city of Athens. It’s a symbol of wisdom and knowledge in Greek culture that is reflected in the restaurant’s culinary excellence and thoughtful, creative cooking.

We’re welcomed on arrival at a contemporary reception area set against a striking floor-to-ceiling wine fridge. This impressive display is so tall that a ladder is needed to reach the uppermost bottles.

The opening page on Cookovaya’s menu is titled ‘Apheresis’ which is central to the restaurant’s culinary philosophy, emphasising traditional techniques that extract

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