There’s silence in the dining room, and around the dinner table only a quiet clinking and tinkling and scraping of cutlery, as we enjoy a delicious mushroom risotto. The dining room sits atop a a hill, looking eastward over Lake Itezhi-Tezhi, in the southern part of Zambia’s Kafue National Park. Antique lanterns illuminate the table and surrounding deck and, in the quiet, we can hear loud splashing noises coming from the water. Abandoning our places at the table, we move to the edge of the decking and look out into the darkness. Powerful torchlight illuminates twenty or thirty hippos, all grazing, stomping and splashing in the shallows and on the shore. Slightly skittish, doubtless feeling a little exposed and vulnerable, they quarrel with one another, periodically dashing towards the water and sending
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