A couple of years back, I guided five hikers along the Laugavegur. All of them were over seventy. All of them had been serious hikers their whole lives, the kind of people who knew what a multi-day trek was supposed to feel like. By the end of the trail, one of them had been pulled […]

It is ten in the morning at Seljalandsfoss, and the car park is full. Coaches are arriving in sequence. A queue has formed along the path that leads behind the waterfall — the shot everyone came for — and the mist rising off the cascade has turned the ground into a mud slick that claims […]