Last month we tried something here we had never done before. We published the full program and the full price of a private Ring Road tour before it ran. Nine days, two travellers from California, 2,503,000 ISK, call it 19,700 dollars. We promised to write down what actually happened once they flew home, and judging by the messages that came in afterwards, a fair number of you intend to hold us to that. Fine by us. Here is the same trip, told from the driver’s seat. Philippe, co-owner at Lilja Tours, guided it from first pickup to last goodbye.

Two notes before we start. Our guests asked us not to publish their photos, which we respect completely, so the images with this piece come from our own archive rather than from their week. Their names are changed for the same reason. We will call them

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