The art of the detour: Michelin-starred dining in Europe’s most enchanting small towns

The world’s most rarefied tables are rarely found on the most obvious streets. They are tucked into medieval alleyways, nestled beneath alpine peaks, hidden behind dry-stone walls in lavender-scented valleys. For those who know where to look, a single reservation can become the most compelling reason to explore a corner of Europe you might never otherwise have discovered.

Have you ever booked a restaurant first, then looked at the destination afterwards? I booked several tables in the past, like Noma in Copenhagen or The Fat Duck in Bray before even looking where they were located or securing accommodation. I hadn’t booked a destination. I’d booked a table.

A starred restaurant opens its reservation calendars six, sometimes eight months in advance. Your priority is to secure a table first and accommodation later. So many of Europe’s Michelin-starred kitchens aren’t sitting in Paris or Rome — they’re in some small

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