Mykonos is not, by reputation, a place associated with rest. It is associated with the opposite of rest — with late nights, with music that continues until the sun comes up, with the specific kind of exhaustion that follows a week of doing everything the island makes available at full commitment. This reputation is entirely deserved and I would not argue with it.

What is less well known is that Mykonos in summer also offers, for those who know where to look, some of the most genuinely restorative experiences in the Mediterranean. Not despite the energy of the island but in a specific relationship with it. The mornings before the wind picks up. The coves that the day-trippers have not found. The water at six in the morning, before anyone else is in it, in a colour that has no accurate English name.

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