It was still dark as our plane began its descent into Muscat. Below us, the inky black waters of the Gulf of Oman reflected the light of the silvery moon and the shadowy outlines of the saw-toothed Jabal Akhdar Mountains encircled the still-sleeping city.

The airport was quiet, our flight the only one landing at this time of day. Quickly through immigration, we emerged into the arrivals area of the terminal, where a uniformed driver awaited. Through the terminal and into the waiting car, we headed straight out of town, towards the mountains.

The road wound through the outskirts of Muscat, gradually giving way to the rugged vastness of the Omani desert. As we get closer to the mountains, the landscape becomes even more dramatic, with jagged peaks rising against the slowly brightening sky. The air grows cooler as we climb. We pass small villages and traditional stone houses, clinging

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