Early one morning, five of us climbed aboard a safari vehicle and headed into the Bushman’s Kloof wilderness of the Cederberg Mountains in South Africa’s Western Cape. This was not, however, a safari in the usual sense. We had no expectations of seeing lions, elephants, giraffes, or any of the other fabled African game animals.

Instead, the guide drove us through a scrubby landscape to a gallery of ancient rock art, the legacy in rust-red of the ancient San people who once called this region home. “This is one of more than 2,500 rock art sites in this region,” our guide Tristan Kapp explained. “UNESCO recognizes the Cederberg as a World Heritage Site for the abundance of these paintings. We don’t know exactly how old they are, but estimates range from 3,000 to 10,000 years. All of it is the work of an ancient
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